Friends from the midwest or east coast mock Californians like me who speak of “fall” and “winter” when the sun still shines and children play on the sidewalk in shorts. I understand, and I don’t resent it; after all, you grew up dazzled by the spectacle of the changes of the seasons. As summer fades, the leaves burn ablaze with fire and gold, and then vanish almost overnight at the onset of winter, leaving dry detritus on the streets for boots to crunch on. And then comes the sudden blanket of pure cold white, mixed with icy water pouring from thunderous clouds. You wouldn’t think of stepping outside in your winter without a practical, durable coat, preferably zip-up (if you’re from Chicago) so that the cruel wind can’t sweep its way in past buttons or toggles right into your bones. And when spring comes, fresh green leaves reach out tenderly towards a pale sun and flowers burst forth like firecrackers, overwhelming you with their colors and scents after the sensory deprivation of winter. You are almost dizzy with the abundance of new pleasures. And when the air grows hot and heavy and redolent of not only pleasant scents, but also the stink of the city, you throw off your cocoons of wool and down and you cavort around town in a mere slip of a dress or in thin shirts and tin pants, to expose as much skin to the sunshine as possible.
I’ve seen glimpses of these transformations, and yes, they are breathtaking. The morning that I awoke in Montreal to a light dusting of snow was pure magic, to me; in Kyoto when the parks are carpeted in the gaudiest colors nature has to offer, I was stunned by their beauty. Summertime in New York City feels like a never-ending carnival of pleasures.
But to my perception, anyway, these extremes are flashy, almost garish; sensually exciting, but almost too much, like a rich chocolate cake one can’t help gorging on, or a musky deep perfume that pervades a little too strongly in the air.
Here in northern California, one must be more sensitive; one is attuned to the subtleties of the seasons. Like a connoisseur of anything fine and rare, one feels the passing of time in the angle of the light, in the shift in the breeze, in the quality of the air, in the gentle muted wash of colors on the hills… green in the winter, fading to brown and then bright gold as the grass dries.
My favorite moment is when we are poised at the threshold of autumn. It takes longer than on the east coast, in my experience; autumn is shy to approach and comes slowly by degrees. We are in that moment now. Summer, as you may know, comes late to the bay area — we are right now in that liminal, ambiguous space between the high summer of late september and the onset of october’s coolness. like a girl who can’t decide what to wear, the weather changes daily, almost hourly; warm enough by day to sit outdoors in the shade and drink a tall refreshing sparkling beverage, but in the evenings cool enough to cozy into a sweater and fall asleep under a heavier blanket. But the change is unmistakeably there to us, who know how to look for it, even when the temperature feels similar to august’s warmest days. It is most pronounced in the angle of the light, particularly after the equinox when we are hurtling towards the winter solstice, and the daylight hours seem to melt away with increasing rapidity. The sun’s arc shifts to a deeper angle, and noontime passes more quickly into the afternoon, with its indirect light and deeper shadows.
And how to describe that new scent in the air? It has a bite to it, as the wind shifts direction — it smells faintly of burned wood from the late summer fires, it smells cool and fresh and arid, lacking that green wet fertile smell of spring and summer. It smells of dried leaves, not new grass; smells of the ocean, not ripe fruit.
My fellow Californians can sense these, and accordingly there is a change in mood, a shift in feeling. Scarves emerge — light cotton scarves, scarves that don’t necessarily add much to warmth but which are in homage to the autumn, as if encouraging her to come forward. Boots, too, appear, but on bare legs of carefree girls who match them with light floral dresses or jeans and tshirts. The colors alter in tone for increased sobriety; browns, deep teals, burnt sienna, forest green; gone are the trembling tones of pink and cream and powder blue.
These may seem paltry gifts for nature to offer in light of her showiness elsewhere in the world; but I suppose we have evolved to appreciate them all the same, or even more so because they are less obvious.